I. Training the dog to pounce
I. Training the dog to pounce
The act of lunging is the most direct and effective measure to prevent and directly stop criminal behavior and external aggression. The lunge is one of the instincts that dogs use to protect and repel themselves, but it is only a narrowly defined lunge. A trained dog lunge is a fierce, rapid command lunge based on the narrow sense of an instinctive lunge, achieved by people purposefully and systematically training the dog.
[Training Objective] To train the dog to fight fiercely, resourcefully and bravely against criminals or enemies according to the trainer’s command, and eventually to capture it.
[Training tools] Bite sleeve guard, whip
1. An experienced rib trainer is chosen, properly mounted and then hidden, with the dog owner tied at a distance and the owner standing next to the dog. The assistant trainer, holding a stick in his right hand and wearing a sleeve in his left hand, emerges from concealment and makes various violent movements from far to near, hitting the ground with a whip or stick, sometimes attacking and retreating, doing everything possible to tease the dog and make it bark furiously; the dog owner encourages the dog to jump to the assistant trainer ” good reward muzzle. After the dog’s ferocious teasing caused, the assistant teacher can walk up to the dog, see the dog open its mouth and hand the sleeve to the dog to bite; the dog bites, the assistant teacher can take off the sleeve and continue to tease the dog with the stick to make the dog hostile to the assistant teacher; then the assistant teacher should return to the hiding place. After several training sessions, the dog can successfully complete the training subject and move on to the next step and training.
2. Choose the training site in advance, with the assistant trainer hidden in the training site. When the dog owner arrives at the training ground with the dog, the dog sits hidden in the assistant instructor’s position. The dog owner half crouches and says to the dog: Attention After the code is over, the assistant teacher makes a sound to alert the dog; stop for a moment and emerge from concealment with a stick or tree bar, constantly tapping the ground and making sneaky movements. When the dog is fierce enough to bite the assistant teacher, the dog owner should issue a dog owner 襲襲 password for the dog to bite; at this time, the assistant teacher should make a fearful retreating action and finally flee in defeat. The dog owner keeps giving the attack and ” good commands to encourage the dog, and then ends the training.
3. After repeated training in the above method, when the dog dares to attack and bite the helper and keeps biting, the dog should be trained to release”. The basic method is that when the dog owner tells the dog to bite the helper’s guard sleeve, the helper resists for a period of time, then drops the arm and keeps the sleeve near the ground and still. At this point, the dog owner says the command: Release” and pulls the leash back slightly. Some dogs only need to hear the owner’s voice ” release The code will release, but some dogs will not release in this case, the trainer should repeat the code, then pull the leash and use the left hand to cut the dog’s nose or squeeze the dog’s thigh, internally forcing the dog to release. When the dog forms the initial conditioned reflex, the training distance will gradually expand so as to reach the long distance to command the dog to let go”.
4. After training the above, you can start training the dog to watch for the bitten object. The method is for the dog owner to control the dog with a long leash. When the dog bites the helper, the dog owner commands the dog’s hand and the helper stops teasing and raises his hand in surrender. The dog owner allows the dog to watch the teaching assistant. If the dog looks around or tries to return to the owner, the helper should immediately run away or resist and guide the dog to attack the helper; when the dog bites the helper, the helper immediately stops fighting and the dog owner again monitors the dog. After repeated training, the dog can develop the ability to monitor and monitor the bite target.
After the dog has pounced on the teaching assistant and watched for a while, the dog owner should return to the dog’s left side, tie the dog on a leash, have the dog continue to watch the teaching assistant, and instruct the teaching assistant to get up and walk. The assumption for the dog on the lead is that the enemy teaching assistant is 5 to 10 M following distance; as this is done, the owner should continue to have the dog walk and monitor the teaching assistant. If the teaching assistant escapes or resists, have the dog subdue again. After escorting for some distance, assume that the enemy can be handed over to another teaching assistant to take away. The dog is then rewarded to end the training. The combination training can be done after the first few pounce breakdowns are completed. This means that the dog performs a complete set of actions such as remote pounce, release, surveillance, escort, etc., completely at the command of the dog owner without a training leash. Be sure to check the guard before training to prevent accidents.
Training dog tracking
Training dogs to track
Find the same trace as the olfactory scent on the command of the dog’s owner and the olfactory scent given to him, and follow this trace to get the same object and person as the olfactory scent. The dog needs excitement to work, an active sense of smell, a steady line, strong trace recognition, and an obvious response.
[Training Objective] To develop the dog’s ability to follow a target based on scent trails.
[Training tools] Tracking straps and objects
1. First, get the dog used to wearing the tracking leash and tracking harness. After that, choose a suitable grass area, hand pull the leash to let the dog sit, another person straight away about 45 meters, put the dog familiar items on the ground, make sure he can see these movements, then tie the tracking leash and leash, bend the right hand to point to the starting point, give out the sniff and tracking code, the dog will be excited to rush forward because he sees the items, then train the dog repeatedly, the dog can gradually develop to be able to stand according to the hand signal or code and last for a period of time, and then train the dog to learn to bow and turn around on this basis.
2. Before training, put the dog on the tracking strap and tracking rope, and grab the shoulder of the rope. Point your right hand to the starting point, give the dog the sniffing and tracking code, the dog tracks, and let the rope slide through until the remaining about 0.9 meters after the heel. If the dog is doing well, give it gentle encouragement from time to time. When the dog loses interest or does not track at all, use the day order. When the dog finds the item at the end of the trail, give a sub-reward and remove the tracking harness and toss the item to him.
Third, second is to move on to the second phase of training. When the dog is successfully tracking with a 10-minute delay, the items can be placed in the middle in addition to the end point, there should be some distance between the items, and the items should be placed on the line, not off, and not on or near the turn. Do not be too big or too conspicuous. It should also be fully infected with human odor. As the training progresses, the tracking distance is gradually extended and the placed items can be increased.
4. Finding the placed item is beneficial to improving the dog’s tracking ability because it causes the dog to make full use of its sense of smell. Once the dog finds the tracking item, he should lie down, throw the tracking leash on the tracking line, run to the dog, and encourage him as usual. After receiving the item from the dog, grab the tracking rope on the dog’s shoulder and give the “track” command. When the dog moves forward again, let the rope slip through your hand as described above, and as you improve your training, it will automatically lie down when it finds an item.
5. Then move on to the third phase of tracking: when the dog is asked for scent extension for 20 minutes, a right-angle line should be scheduled and the turns of the line should be at least 50 paces apart. As mentioned before, do not place objects at or near the turns.
6. Difficulties are encountered during tracking for various reasons, such as interference from human or livestock scent, changes in geological conditions, and blistering winds. At this point, the dog owner should bring the dog forward a few meters, or move it a few meters to the left or right, and then try again to squeeze out the trail and continue tracking. If the dog fails to track, an easy one should be arranged that does not make it lose interest. With two successful sessions per week and with proper, resourceful training, the dog can eventually track traces that are delayed for several hours.
Do not punish your dog arbitrarily when it is tracking. If a dog is punished for losing his sense of smell while tracking, he will not think he is being punished for losing his sense of smell, but for tracking and will easily lose interest in tracking. Do not pull hard on the tracking rope when tracking. The tracking rope is used to control the speed and direction, pulling it hard will distract and lead to stop tracking. Tracking gait should be gentle, otherwise it is easy to miss the trace line and the above mentioned items. Pay attention to the way of pulling the tracking rope by hand, don’t let the tracking rope become an obstacle and affect the progress. Tracking training should be conducted in different climatic conditions and venues. Do not always train tracking in a circular field, as this can easily lead to poor positioning results.
Training Dog Search
Dog training search
This training differs from articulation training in that it requires the dog to use more of its sense of smell in addition to vision when finding and articulating objects.
[Training Objective] To search the defined field and find the hidden person or object through the sense of smell.
[Training tools] collar, leash, articulation items that the dog needs to find
1. When the dog successfully finds and connects to an item, instruct it to return to the training site to search for other possible items. The dog owner should always be outside the training site when the dog is searching. Although the dog is not restricted in any way while searching, it must always act under the dog owner’s code. Search training should only be done after the dog has reached a good standard in articulated object training. To begin training, select an area filled with suitable tall grass or other vegetation and place a fully scent-absorbing object approximately 10 paces from the dog. Upon returning to the dog, the code for articulation is given out just as it is in articulation training. Because the item is hidden in deeper plants, the dog needs to use its olfactory abilities, in addition to its vision. When it starts searching, it should be given light encouragement.
2. Place it on the field 2 An item, although the dog does not see the placed item, should be placed into the field to search for another item again as soon as the dog finds one of them and brings it back to you. If the dog does not want to enter the field to search for the second item, you should accompany the dog in the search and help him as much as possible. As training deepens the person should gradually increase the number of pieces of items, eventually making it possible for the dog to search and find at least 6 absorb the scent for a few minutes before placing the person in the designated field for the item. Items can be made of wood, leash, rubber, fabric, plastic, or metal, but not glassware or any other substance that could harm the dog.
3. It is not easy for the dog to stay on site during this training because the dog does not know when to cross the site, so the day command is needed to stay on site. The dog should be instructed to return to the field with the command “go” until he can turn his head. Whenever the dog automatically turns back, it issues the day command so that it understands what it means, so that the code is eventually aligned with the action of turning back to the field. Many dog owners mistakenly issue a non-codeword when the dog leaves the designated field, which is highly inappropriate because the code only means that the dog cannot do the opposite of what the dog owner wants. If the dog is searching and the dog owner issues a non-codeword, this means telling it not to search. The dog cannot have human intelligence. It does not know that it has exceeded the boundaries of the prescribed field, so it is reprimanded by its owner.
4. Another mistake in training is that items are often placed near the edge of the field when the dog owner is standing at the edge of the field searching. If the owner stands too close to the item, the dog can easily cross over the item and ignore it. When it enters the field search, it will tilt its head forward for a few meters, and then gradually calm down. Therefore, it is best for the owner to stand about 1 meter away from the edge of the field, so the dog can search the ground with its nose when it arrives.
5. When the dog is well trained on the leash, he can remove the leash, let him into the field, and continually encourage him from a distance. Once he spots a hide and starts barking, he will be praised as before. Instead of calling the dog to you, the dog owner goes to the dog, praises him further, searches for the hider, and escorts your friend off the premises.
When the dog finds your friend but doesn’t bark, he should give a barking code to encourage him to bark. You can also tease him to prompt him to bark. However, you must be careful not to do this too much so that the dog does not bite. If the dog does not bark after finding the concealer, do not tease or punish him, his understanding cannot reach this level and he cannot associate punishment with his not barking, otherwise he will lose interest in training.
Before this training, the dog should know several commands:go, search, lie down, etc. , and already know how to retrieve the item. The dog should be praised when he finds the item. Don’t nag the dog all the time or give out too many codes, as it can easily distract it from searching. The dog should be given light encouragement when searching. It can be made of wood, leash, rubber, fabric, plastic, or metal, but not glassware or any other substance that could harm the dog.
IV. Training your dog to save lives
Alaskan Sled Dog
IV. Training your dog to save lives
In ancient and modern times, accounts of righteous dogs saving their masters, yellow dogs breaking out, and avenging the Lord are commonplace. Today, people often use dogs in a variety of life-saving jobs, faithfully serving humans. There are mountain life-saving pills in the snow and ice to find travelers in distress, there are dogs in the blazing fire to sacrifice their lives to find children fire; there are dogs in the seaside baths to save drowning people; there are loyal dogs, bravely fighting with poisonous snakes and wild animals to protect their masters from disaster; some dogs in the collapsed rubble and rubble to sniff out the exact location of the buried people, to deliver food, oxygen and letters for them to be saved. In short, humans are using dogs more and more extensively for life-saving purposes. The methods of life-saving training vary depending on the context in which they are used.
[Training Objective] To train dogs to be excited and motivated to perform their special functions on command or call for help, and to assist people in rescue efforts independently or in part. Dogs used for lifesaving training must be sensitive, brave, tenacious, docile, agile, enduring in stamina, and have a desire to search above cooperation.
Professional life-saving equipment, life preservers, fireproof clothing
1. Snow rescue dog training: First develop the dog’s search ability. Choose an open, icy hill and the trainer and assistant trainer take the dog to the destination. The trainer first teases the dog with a treat or object. After the excitement, the assistant instructor takes the food or object in front of the dog and then runs away to hide it. Then, the trainer gives the command “search” to the dog and directs the dog to search the ground. When the dog excitedly searches for the assistant trainer, the assistant trainer immediately gives the dog food and at the same time, both the trainer and the assistant trainer enthusiastically encourage and reward the dog, so that it forms the impression that it can get delicious food and the joy of the trainer and the assistant trainer after searching for the assistant trainer. impression. With such frequent training, the dog’s search enthusiasm will grow and so will his interest.
2. Training of rescue dogs in rubble and debris: The training method for rescue dogs in rubble and debris is basically the same as for snow rescue dogs, but the training site should be chosen in a collapsed building or other rubble bricks. When the dog finds a buried living person, it should bark and train the dog to give food, oxygen and other rescue items to the victim to avoid the threat of starvation and suffocation and wait quietly for rescue. Even in today’s peaceful environment, it is important to train a group of life-saving dogs in the city for emergency rescue in various accidents.
3. Sea rescue dog training: Training begins with developing the dog’s conditioned reflexes to swim codes, hand signals, or cries for help from a drowning person. At first, the assistant teacher pretended to be a drowning person and made a struggling cry for help in the water, and the trainer gave the dog the swimming code and waved to the drowning person. Then swim with it to the assistant instructor. When the assistant instructor grabs the handle or lifebuoy, the dog is allowed to swim to the shore. The trainer and the dog save the drowning person together. When the dog completes this exercise, the assistant instructor and trainer should sincerely reward the dog.
4. Training of life-saving dogs in fires: Life-saving dogs in fires are called fire dogs. At present, some countries in Western Europe have started to train and use them, and have achieved good results. Fire dogs rely primarily on their unique sense of smell and ability to discern direction to help firefighters quickly find hidden or drowsy children at the scene of a fire. A life-saving dog at a fire must be brave, docile, courageous, hardy and not afraid of flames. Training can be done in 2 stages.1 . Developing basic competencies The basic competencies of a rescue dog in a fire are primarily training to search for children inside buildings and to climb, cross barriers and carry valuables. 2 . Hands-on training The main training is to train the dog to repeatedly enter and exit a burning building to search for hidden or drowsy children. In the early stages of training, the entire building is filled with smoke only, and the trainer and dog enter together to search.
Snow lifesavers must have good search and digging abilities. Life-saving trained dogs must be sensitive, brave, tenacious, docile, agile, and have enduring stamina. They crave a higher desire to search to cooperate and work together.