I. Physical training
There are three ways to train a dog to play retrieve.
The lure method, in short, is playing! Use the dog’s hunting nature for training. The play process depends on the reward for the dog and, of course, includes no punishment or correction. Dogs like to fetch things with their mouths. First, you take an object that the dog likes, sit the dog on your left side, gently open your mouth with your hand, code for the dog to grab it, then put the object in the dog’s mouth and reward the dog as soon as it catches the thing by code.
Train this action repeatedly. Until your dog can grab the object when he hears the code. Once he has accepted the concept, the next step is to train the release action. The code should be eased along with the cipher for differentiation.
Let your dog fetch itself, not your owner. When you need to move away from the dog’s mouth, again and again, you need to give the command to take. Be sure to repeat it until the dog follows the code to handle.
Again, teach your dog to pick up things on the floor, with the dog owner giving the mouth code and letting things roll on the floor so the dog associates the items with the code. If your dog doesn’t understand and stays quiet, you must push the dog’s head repeatedly to force him to look down and pick up the item. See a picture of a Frisbee with dog treats to get a dog to like the Frisbee Once the above goal is achieved, throw the things away and have the dog retrieve them. Until the training objective is achieved. The dog owner should decide how to train a particular dog based on both approaches. Remember, it is in the dog’s nature to retrieve articulated items.
[3. Tailored to the dog]
The combination of the two should be treated separately by dog-loving owners on a dog-by-dog basis. Training a dog to play retrieve articulation should be done based on the dog’s come and sit course formation, i.e., the dog already has the essential ability to obey. At first, choose a quiet environment, and then gradually complicate the background after the formation of conditioned reflexes. The induction method, in short, is playing! Use the dog’s hunting nature for training. The play depends on the reward for the dog, which of course, includes no punishment and no correction. Dogs like to pick up things with their mouths.
Therefore, when this behavior is correctly encouraged, the dog will continue to be willing to accept it. They can develop the initial ability to pin with repeated training, rewards, and encouragement. Once the dog’s instincts emerge, he begins to take him outside and play games. In general, start with small objects. At first, don’t throw rocks and metal out for the dog to fetch. If the dog flies to grab something, the dog should be rewarded immediately. The reward should be in a gentle voice.
Repeat this training until competence is developed. The coercive method starts with teaching your dog to obey.
- 1 Make sure you’ve thrown the Frisbee well before you train your dog to retrieve it.
- 2 Train your dog to play Frisbee before you teach him to play with soft objects you like.
- 3 Give your dog his frisbee.
- 4 Be careful not to tire of the dog and praise the dog. Even if the dog is only marginally successful.
- 5 Take care to give your dog plenty of water and train on the soft grass.
- 6 Keep improving your abilities and those of your dog.
- 7 Be careful of others’ safety and take responsibility for your pets’ behavior.
- 8 Get some simple knowledge. To train a Pointer, you must know something about breeding and training. You can consult experienced people or explore on your own, paying attention to reading and magazines. It is best to read books on pet maintenance to train your dog better.
The dog must be equipped with an appropriate diet, vaccinations must be given on time, and attention must be paid to the physiological characteristics of the dog at different times, such as calcium deficiency, estrus, and worming.
Everything you do is based on the dog’s natural ability to interact with its owner. Throwing and how to control the Frisbee. Once you consider training your dog to retrieve it with a Frisbee, you should first learn how to make yourself proficient at throwing it. Because you will need to play with your dog and the Frisbee, it is wise to play with your human companion first. Once your dog enjoys retrieving it, and you have learned how to control and throw the Frisbee, you can bring the Frisbee to your dog. Frisbee features make the retrieval sport more fun. The important thing is to make your dog think the Frisbee is his own. If you put gravy on the Frisbee, the dog will be immediately interested in the new toy. Another method with a high success rate is using the Frisbee as the dog’s dinner plate. If these are done for a while, the dog will be more willing to occupy the frisbee as a personal item.
The Pleasant Shepherd was a great herding dog in ancient times, hardy, physically robust, with a wide field of vision, loyal, intelligent, reliable, and widely used. Many trainers and dog owners believe that the healthiest and most beneficial is to train the dog to play retrieve title fetch games. The most common scenario occurs in a mutual-pleasure game, where the dog owner throws a wooden stick or rubber ball and sees the dog excitedly chasing after it. However, this game would be taken into a new realm if Frisbee were used instead. Adding affection and interaction between dog lovers and owners to the game.
II. Muzzle training
1. Come, come, come, come
When feeding, the owner calls the dog’s name, gives the come or come code, makes a sign with the right hand, and pulls the leash back with the left hand. When the dog comes to the side, the owner gives the excellent code to praise it, has the dog sit there on the left side, and touches its head, neck, and body with the hand. After many repetitions, you will be successful. In the early stages of training, some dogs do not respond to codes and hand signals, which
When using actions that cause the dog to be excited, action rousing actions such as hand clapping, bells, and toys to interest the dog and stimulate the dog to come over. 5. Some dogs run around when they hear the code. At this point, the owner should issue the code threateningly and pull the training leash to force it to come over.
2. Sitting and lying down
1, Sit down. Sit training must be done in three steps. The first step is to pull the dog to stand on the owner’s left side and give the command to sit. At this point, the right-hand lifts the collar. , the left-hand presses the corner of the dog’s waist to force it to sit. When the dog sits, it should receive a treat, touch and praise. After several training, the dog can develop the habit of sitting; the second step is close training 3 pull the dog in front of the master, the left hand holds the leash, also known as the training rope, the right-hand does the sit gesture, the left-hand forces the dog to sit, and the dog is rewarded after sitting. After repeated training, the dog will sit immediately after hearing the owner’s command or seeing the gesture; the third step is remote training so the dog can sit away from the owner for a long time.
The training method is to let the dog sit next to the owner, the owner slowly leaves the dog for 1~2 steps, so the dog stands or walks; the owner should immediately repeat the sat code, lift the leash and force the dog back to the original position, then train as above, if the dog can sit for 3~5 seconds, it should be rewarded. Later can gradually extend the sitting time. When the dog can sit on its own for 5 minutes, it can gradually increase the distance between the person and the dog and remove the leash, eventually achieving the training goal of the dog sitting 20 meters away from the owner.
2 Lie down. This action should be performed after learning to sit. The training method is for the owner to sit the dog on the left side first, then the owner’s right leg steps forward, and the body bends forward and down. At this point, the right-hand holds the food to lure the dog. When the dog behaves to acquire, he will take the opportunity to slowly move the food forward and downward while giving the lie-down code. When the dog lies down, he can reward him with food.
After several training sessions, the formation and consolidation of the conditioned reversal shot can eliminate the food stimulus, and the owner can command the dog to lie under the code or hand signal. Another method of training is to have the dog sit on the master’s left side after the master takes a step back on the left leg, squats then holds the dog’s forelimbs with both hands, then gives the lie-down code, pulls the dog’s forelimbs forward with both hands, and then compresses the dog’s shoulder blades with the left arm. When the dog lies down correctly, it can be immediately rewarded.
From then on, the dog could lie down submissively at a certain distance, directed by the owner’s code and hand signals, until it could hold on for more than 5 minutes.
This training involves the owner first having the dog sit, then giving the standing code, while doing a bottom-up, forward stretching right arm, palm up swinging gesture, then, the owner’s right-hand holds the item or pull rope, then the left-hand reaches to the dog’s rear abdomen, forcing and helping the dog stand, then releasing the hand, at which point, if the dog can stand for a moment, it should be immediately rewarded.
Border Collies can stop at any time to be evaluated by a judge on a code or wait quietly while other dogs are considered. You can walk your Border Collie 2 to 3 times in a circle for training. When you stop yourself, let the dog stand up naturally and give the code: stand, stop” at this time. After shouting the word stand, it’s best to pause and then shout stop And do it in a gentle voice. Also use the palm of your hand about 50 cm in front of your dog and make a gesture of pressing down on your dog’s nose to make him stand and stop.
At first, need to repeat the code a few times, facing the Border Collie staring into his eyes and pushing your palm back and forth in front of the dog’s nose. If the dog tries to move, immediately shout, stand still, look at the dog’s eyes more sharply, and increase your hand gestures. Pay attention to the code, gestures, and eye coordination, and gradually increase the practice time. If the Border Collie sits, you can use your hand to hold the dog’s abdomen gently, but don’t use too much force to avoid causing the dog to stand in an unnatural position. After the Border Collie stands and stops, shout the muzzle stand and stop and praise him.
For example, in training, the dog is temporarily unable to get his center of gravity and stand still. The owner can use a wall and post for the dog to lean against, then lure him slowly away from the wall and post with a treat to stand on his own. In training, when you hear the standing code the owner can immediately leave the dog when the legs are standing to work on his ability to stand for a long time. After several training sessions, the dog can stand for a long time following the owner’s code or hand signal.
4. Reach out and shake hands
To train the owner, sit the dog down, face to face, give the reach right hand or handshake code, and gently touch the dog’s right foreleg with the right hand. At this point, if the dog lifts its right front foot, the owner will hold its paw with the right hand and then reward it. After several training sessions, as long as the owner gives the code and extends his right hand, the dog will consciously grow his right front foot. Finally, as long as the owner provides the code with or extends his hand, the dog will immediately extend his right front foot. After the right limb is successfully trained, the left limb can be trained again.
Always surprising you with something unexpected at any time, Pleasant loves to shake hands with his owner, which is how Pleasant asks you for a treat. Many dogs shake hands; this is the fastest and first action many Pleasants master when they learn. Why do many Pleasants learn this action so quickly? This is because, during nursing, puppies must press their front paws against the mother’s breast to stimulate milk production. As they grow up, raising the front feet to scratch becomes the action of the dog asking the owner for food or touch. The handshake fits with Hylie’s movement, so many Hyles can learn this action quickly.
As you enjoy a delicious dinner, Happy Tee, sitting next to you, keeps shaking your hand. This time, you should understand that Happy Tee is not showing you friendship but wants to share a piece of the pie with you.
III. Field training
[1. Winding the rod]
Have 2-3 poles on the training ground practice field and then use the dog’s favorite toy to guide the dog around the pole; this will slowly increase the number of bars and get the dog in the habit of using the toy to guide him. In addition, rewards that should be received should not be skimped on, but instead, tell the dog you are great, help him a tickle, and interact.
[2. Wandering Dispersal]
By wandering, we mean allowing the dog to move freely in the direction of the owner. This training relieves the dog of tension and is a way to reward the dog. To start the training, the owner tightens the leash, runs the dog for a while to get the dog excited, then gives the wandering code in a gentle and relaxed tone while loosening the leash and letting the dog move freely for a few minutes, then enables the dog to return to the owner and rewards him. After several training sessions, the leash can be lifted, and the dog can enjoy the activity freely, but only when called upon. In addition, the range of action should not exceed 20 meters from the owner. If the distance is too far, the dog should be recalled immediately.
Following is having the dog walk side-by-side close to the owner’s left side. To train, the owner should pull the leash outdoors in a flat, wide, quiet area, have the dog lean to the left, and give the reliance code to travel faster. When the dog overtakes or lags, issue a reliance code or correct the leash. After a few training sessions, the owner can loosen the leash and gradually change the pace or continue training in more complex environments until the owner can have the dogged march on the owner’s left under the code.
The training method is to sit the dog in a quiet place and do the fake-out when the owner walks 20 meters forward. After that, quickly go back to the right side of the dog and then use the code: go and the gesture: owner kneels with left leg, right arm flat in front, palm pointing in the front direction to get the dog to move forward. When the dog reaches the place of the fake, let the dog sit, and the owner will quickly reward the dog.
With repeated training, owners can use codes and hand signals to get their dogs to walk forward.
This training can be done when the owner takes the dog for a walk. Have the dog sit first. Then the owner gives the code not to move. At this point, the owner can pick up the end of the leash and slowly back up and walk around the dog. If the dog changes its original sitting position, it should be trained from the beginning = After several sessions, the owner can let go of the leash to walk farther and let the dog be patient.
To train to jump, you can start by jumping a 30~40 cm high small boardwalk3, pull the dog out from 4~5 meters from the small boardwalk, and the owner Bring him to the direction of the small alley when he is about to approach the small path, the owner gives out the jump code while exerting a little force to pull the leash to the small board When the oblique top of the bridge is pulled up, the dog will jump over, and the dog should be rewarded when he jumps over. After a few training sessions, you can lift the leash and let the dog sit a few meters away from the obstacle, but the owner stands on the other side of the block, then tempted with food while giving out the come code and let the dog run in its direction. When approaching the obstacle and giving out the jump code, the dog will jump over the barrier, at which point it can be rewarded with food.
After several training sessions, the dog will jump over the obstacle smoothly if the person stands next to the barrier, waves his hand at the dog, and gives a command. The dog can then gradually increase the obstacle’s height or change the block, such as jumping a fence, jumping an overhead bridge, jumping a ring, etc.
The Heeler is a smaller version of the Scottish Shepherd, but they are just as elegant and beautiful. The Pleasant Shepherd is passionate, loyal, and friendly to his owner. By all means, he may retain strangers, but he will never appear afraid or timid.
Pleasant Shepherds do not like to change their habits. They look for a place to sleep and usually don’t want to sleep. There are other aspects. Some people also call the Pleasant Shepherd a Dwarf Scottish Shepherd, but of course, can a Pleasant Shepherd be as short as a dachshund? The bones of a Pleasant Shepherd are much lighter than a Scottish Shepherd’s. If the legs are too long, they can easily be broken. He has a vast field of vision and makes an excellent companion dog.