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Prices of different species of chameleons

Chameleon

Chameleon

Prices of different species of chameleons

I. High-crowned chameleons

2 ? Cynical brain?350 – 550>

Juveniles of about 600 – 950>

Adults / Males are about 1,500 – 2,000

II. Jaeschen Chameleon 1,200 – 1,600>

III. Mina Chameleon 900 – 3,800>

IV. Senegalese chameleon 250 – 400>

V. Quadrangular chameleon 1,200 – 1,400>

VI. Leopard chameleon 2,500 – 3,800>

VII. Carpet Chameleon 700 – 900>

VIII. Armoured dead-leaf chameleon 1,000 – 1,300>

IX. Dead leaf chameleon 400 – 500>

X. Fraser pygmy chameleon 700 – 800>

XI. Cape pygmy chameleon < 1,000>

XII. Bearded pygmy chameleon 350 – 400>

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2

How to choose a healthy chameleon?

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Chameleon

Chameleon

How to choose a healthy chameleon?

There are a few more points to share with you when choosing a chameleon:>

1. During the day, the chameleon’s eyes are bright and sacred, and they rotate constantly to stay alert and find food! >

2. You can feed on the spot before you choose. If the chameleon sees food and immediately sticks out its tongue to hunt, the longer and faster it sticks out its tongue, the better its health. After hunting, when the chameleon eats the food, watch for abnormalities in the mouth.

3. Guide the chameleon to climb on your hand and feel the grip of the chameleon’s limbs. The stronger the grip, the better the health condition.

4. Chameleons sleep at night with their tails forcefully coming or curling on branches. If it is vertically flaccid, it is in poor health!

5. Don’t compare more than two chameleons at the same time, it will scare the chameleon to death.

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3

Basics of raising a good chameleon

Chameleon

Chameleon

The basics of raising a good chameleon

1. Proper temperature

The most suitable temperature range for keeping high crowns is 25 to 32 degrees. Many friends only think that hot spots Having 32 to 35 degrees is enough, and always think that chameleons will find a suitable place to regulate their body temperature without considering the temperature of the rest of the feeder. In fact, when the hot spot When there is a big difference with the room temperature, the temperature from the spotlight to the bottom of the box also drops rapidly. For example, when the room temperature is below when ~15 degrees, it may be very hot under the spotlight, but the spotlight cannot raise the temperature of the entire feeder to the proper temperature 25 ~ the temperature at the bottom of the box or other locations may still be very low. When it leaves the hot spot, the chameleon will not stay under the hot spot for 24 hours After that it is equal to living in the low temperature, that’s why many friends think the temperature is high enough and still find the chameleon has symptoms like cold, indigestion, and loss of appetite! This problem is especially noticeable in well ventilated and large receptacles, so it is important that we know the temperature of the receptacle and make sure the entire receptacle is not below 25 degrees.

There is no standard for the number of spotlight tiles to use, it depends largely on the size of the feeder and the room temperature. Use a thermometer to measure the temperature to determine what tiles of bulbs to use. Remember that the spotlight and the chameleon must be kept at a certain distance or it will hurt.

Hypothermia symptoms or problems: dark color, loss of appetite, indigestion, respiratory infections colds, etc.

2. Proper humidity

Many people believe that feeding high crowns must have high humidity. In general, ultrasonic fogging is used to increase humidity, but one must remember to use a timer switch for control. Prolonged use of fogging can make the feeder too wet and prone to bacteria growth. In fact, high crowns do not require high humidity. About 50% during the day and about 70% at night. In the south, fogging is not needed at all, except for dry showers in the winter which are actually fine as long as you spray more water.

Pay attention to the high humidity of the larvae about 70~90%, the rearing box must use moisturizing substrates such as soil and grass moss do not use bark, and various plants and water sprays can also increase the humidity, but care must be taken to avoid bacterial growth.

Too much or too little humidity can also cause problems with chameleon peeling. Old skin that cannot be shed tends to harbor fungus that can lead to skin disease calluses or inflammation. Nails or tail tips can fall off because the old skin prevents nutrient delivery. Wounds can occur when nails or tail tips fall off, and untreated wounds can easily become inflamed.

Also be aware that humidity levels can drop with the use of heat lamps. In winter, the humidity will become very low due to the low temperature and humidity, and the average person will use a heat lamp, which will dry out the eyes and airways and cause eye disease or colds easily. Therefore, in addition to considering the winter temperature, care should be taken to maintain proper humidity.

Symptoms or problems: poor shedding, respiratory disease, eye disease, breeding box prone to bacteria, etc.

3. Appropriate light source

I think everyone knows that natural sunlight is the best source of light, but the average person may not be able to keep them outdoors, so it is necessary to use special lamps to meet the needs of chameleons. Chameleons are everyday reptiles and usually need sunlight to absorb UVB light, which causes the body to produce vitamin D3 D3 helps the body absorb calcium. Now reptile supplies are more common, ordinary people can buy reptile-specific UVB lamps, but there are still people who want to save money by using other lights instead, such as ordinary white lights, aquarium lights, germicidal lights … And so on, but these lights are simply not suitable for use, and germicidal lights are even more harmful to chameleons! Unless you can provide 1 every day, ~3 hours of natural sunlight, you should definitely spend money on reptile tubes.

Universal UVB lamps are available in 2.0, 5.0, 8.0 and the latest 10.0, with the value indicating the percentage of UVB output to the total lamp output e.g. 8.0 means the total lamp output is 8% UVB. The higher the value of the same brand means that the higher the value of the same brand UVB output, but remember that the total output of different brands of lamps is different, so the 8.0 UVB output of different brands is different. The normal choice of 5.0 or higher is sufficient.

Many people will ask how many watts of lamps are more appropriate. The larger the feeder, the greater the wattage. Theoretically, choose a lamp that is the same length as the feeder. However, if the feeder is taller or wider, you may need to add one or more lamps. Reflectors can also be installed if necessary. Using reflectors is 30 to 100% more efficient than being inefficient!

UVB lamps output blue light and heated bulbs output yellow light. Using only one UVB lamp and bulb does not provide white light like natural light, so a lamp that outputs pure white light such as a UVB 2.0 or full-spectrum ultralight must be added and will be found to be vibrant throughout the feeder when used.

In addition to the need for chameleon UVB you also need UVA, which helps to feed and reproduce chameleons. Some bulbs on the market say they can output UVA, and many people misunderstand these bulbs as UVA In fact, the bulb UVA output is very small and not enough to meet the needs of chameleons, but don’t be afraid. In fact, UVB lamps also output UVA, such as an 8.0 lamp, UVA output is generally 30%. So the bulbs don’t need to be specifically chosen for crawlers, as these are mainly used for heating, and the cheaper regular bulb “collector” bulbs are fine.

There is another type of lamp called Mercury Vapour Lamp, which has a much higher UVA/UVB output than regular UVA/UVB lamps and the light is pure white like natural light. After use, the color of the chameleon is significantly brighter and can be used as a heat lamp at the same time, but it is more expensive.

About 12~14 hours of daylight in summer ~ ten hours is enough in winter. Finally, remember that the distance between the light source and the chameleon should be appropriate. A lamp that is too far away will reduce the effect, usually no more than 30 cm, but a UVB lamp that is too close is harmful to the chameleon’s eyes. Many people put the heating lamp in the feeder, the chameleon can easily touch the bulb, which is very dangerous, the heating bulb is too close will burn the chameleon, the heating bulb contact with water is more likely to burst! Therefore, it is important to consider in detail where to install the bulb.

Symptoms or problems: affects appetite, dark color, daytime sleepiness, etc.

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4

Basics of raising a good chameleon 2

Chameleon

Chameleon

Basics of raising a good chameleon 2

4. Proper water source

Water is very important to chameleons, chameleons may be okay without food for 2-3 weeks, but 2 weeks ~ if you don’t drink water for 3 days, you’re going to be bad! A lot of people say they’ve never seen a chameleon drink water and doubt they do, but I can tell you that I see chameleons drink water all the time, and they drink almost every day! If you haven’t seen one, there may be something wrong with the way you provide water.

Many people know that chameleons will not drink from water bowls or still water. Although I have had a few chameleons drink from water bowls in the past, I should have trained them over time to get them used to it, and this is just an isolated example. Most people choose to use an air pump to breathe in the basin or use a pump to flow water from top to bottom fake water to attract the chameleon to drink. These methods are more convenient and do not require manual manipulation. However, most of these water sources are placed at the bottom of the box. If the rearing box is small, it is fine, but when the chameleon is moving for a long time on high, there is less chance to climb to the bottom of the box naturally. But I don’t think this is natural, and water sources should be kept clean regularly.

Wild chameleons usually drink dew from the leaves in the morning, or directly from rain when it rains, so consider providing water based on both. I think the best way to do this is to spray water. You can generally use a water spray system or a water spray can. The water spray system is the best way to simulate rain for long periods of time or to cool off in hot weather and is fully automatic, but expensive. Manual water spraying is more time consuming and labor intensive, but it is considered the cheapest equipment and works better than fake water flowing.

Spray at least twice a day for at least 3 minutes each time, preferably with warm water, and try to avoid spraying the chameleon directly especially the eyes. In the morning just after the sun comes out and once in the evening, the morning spray is the most important. Chameleons like to drink water in the morning and the evening spray is to replace the water lost in the midday sun, which adds humidity and cooling at night. You should spray once or twice more in hot weather and during dry showers in winter.

If a chameleon is showing signs of dehydration, spraying is the best way to rehydrate it! Dehydrated chameleons have sunken eyes and wrinkled skin. Examining the feces of a chameleon can also tell if it is dehydrated. Normal freshly discharged feces should be soft, and adult discharged feces will be covered with a clear layer of protein liquid. Short-term dehydration has little effect on chameleons, and as long as they can be replenished in time, they can quickly regain their condition, but prolonged dehydration can cause unrecoverable damage to the body.

Symptoms or problems: affected appetite, sunken eyes, poor bowel movements, kidney disease and even death.

5. Food and nutrition

Staple foods such as crickets, cockroaches, and grass grasshoppers should only be used as a side food for other species such as breadworms, corn worms, silkworms, and milk rats. Milk mice are only suitable for feeding adults and should not be fed more than one per month.

Finding chameleon food is still difficult for

some of you, and many of you can’t even find crickets, only breadworms. If breadworms are the main food for a chameleon, you’re letting it die a slow death! Breadworms are low in nutritional value, difficult to digest, too high in fat, and too low in water to be a staple food. The chances of feeding breadworms over a long period of time include indigestion, various nutritional diseases, and refusal to eat.

Adults can be fed once a day for the equivalent of 8 to 10 adult crickets in winter this can be reduced to 5 to 7, with a stoppage of 1 to 2 days per week in winter you can feed once on the second day. Juveniles can be divided into 2~3 feedings per day, each time for 15 minutes, and should also be stopped once a week or reduced on 1 or 2 of the days. The actual weight can be adjusted according to the individual, and it is best to feed until 7~ until 80% full for the chance of indigestion or anorexia to be greatly reduced.

Feeding time is best at noon. Normal chameleons defecate within one hour of heat absorption each day, and their appetite naturally increases after defecation. Feeding at night, when the temperature is low, can easily cause indigestion. Observing the feces of chameleons can reveal their digestive status. If you find that much of the food in the feces of chameleons is not digested, you should immediately reduce or stop feeding. If the feces are scanty, the stomach is not working properly and all feeding must be stopped immediately to rehydrate.

Refusal to eat by chameleons is a major headache for all friends, but this problem is not easy to solve for a number of reasons both physical and mental . The most common causes include indigestion, lack of water, and various diseases. Most of the psychological aspects are due to feeding a single food for a long time and too much weight. Never force feed until you understand the cause , and if the chameleon refuses to eat due to an intestinal infection, force feeding will only make the problem worse. This method should only be used for individuals who are unable to feed properly due to prolonged starvation, eye or tongue injury, and not for other individuals affected by various diseases or psychological factors.

Because there are few types of feeds we can find, and most of them are artificially bred, feed nutrition can be skewed in certain areas and lack some of the micronutrients that chameleons need, so we have to supplement them with nutrients. The general nutrients include calcium powder, multivitamins, campylobacter, etc. There are two kinds of calcium powder on the market, one contains vitamin D3. the other is not. If the chameleon is often exposed to natural sunlight, the chameleon itself can make its own D 3. Pure calcium powder can be used. Needless to say, all kinds of vitamins have different effects. Probiotics increase the beneficial bacteria in the intestinal guide, which helps with digestion and is especially helpful for indigestion, deworming or antibiotic use.

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Normal calcium powder is used once a week, multivitamins and probiotics once every two weeks, pregnant women can use more often, and young bodies should use small amounts. However, the above is for three tests only, as it is difficult to know exactly how much is actually used. Please remember that all nutritional powders should not be used in excessive amounts, otherwise they are harmful.

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5

Small File: Introducing the Chameleon

Chameleon

Chameleon

Mini-file: Introduction to Chameleons

Species name: Chameleon

Life expectancy: about 6-8 years in men

Females are only about 5 years old, and the more productive females have a shorter life span.

Chameleon characteristics: Chameleon skin changes with background, temperature, and mood; male chameleons turn dark protective colors into bright colors to warn other chameleons to leave their territory. Some chameleons calmly turn green to red to threaten their enemies. The goal is to protect themselves from attack and keep themselves alive.

Species description:A vertebrate with a slightly flattened torso, rough fur, slightly longer limbs, and slow movement. The tongue is long and can lick bugs. There are various pigment blocks under the epidermis, which can turn into different colors at any time. The body length is 17~25cm7~10? , up to 60 cm. Both sides are flattened and the tail is often curled. The eyes are prominent and the eyes can rotate independently. Some heads are helmet-shaped, and some have conspicuous headgear, such as three long horns sticking forward, and men are more conspicuous and can be used to defend their occupied area. Insects dominate, large birds also eat. Most species are oviparous, coming to the ground to lay 2 to 40 eggs, which are buried in soil or decaying wood, with an incubation period of about 3 months.

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